Montefalco, Balcony Over Umbria

Those who know me, know I love to sing the praises of Umbria, Italy. As a region, it offers breathtaking landscapes of snow-capped mountains, green valleys, clear blue lakes, the tallest man-made waterfall in Europe (built by the Romans), religious and artistic treasures, as well as some of the best food in Italy (think chocolate, sausages, and black truffles). Best of all, Umbria is still slightly off the tourist radar. The region borders the ever-popular Tuscany and can easily be reached within a few hours from either Rome or Florence, but relatively few venture to its lovely towns, with the possible exceptions of Assisi and Perugia. Though I could devote an entire article to Umbria — and probably eventually will — one village in Umbria beckons me back over and over with its charm, glorious food, and spectacular views: Montefalco.

Montefalco perches atop a mountain overlooking much of Umbria. In fact, residents refer to it as “the balcony over Umbria.” The scarcity of large tourist hotels keeps the pace of life slow enough to experience la dolce vita away from the crowds while still allowing easy access to all the major points of interest in the area. Those who have the pleasure of an overnight visit awake only to the sound of church bells and birds, yet the view from this crow’s nest reveals Assisi (home of St. Francis), Foligno, Spello, and Spoleto, sitting picturesquely in the distance. All of these towns as well as Bevagna, Trevi, and the pottery town of Deruta can all be reached within 30 to 40 minutes, but in the evening, one can return to the tranquility of this mountaintop retreat to shop for linens or to taste the wide variety of local products on display in many of the local shops.

Wine connoisseurs may recognize the name Montefalco as a key growing and production area for wine. Vintners in the hills of Monefalco grow the once scarce sagrantino grapes, a variety that yields a wine bursting with tannins and the flavors of red fruits and spices. This grape comprises one hundred percent of the wine Sagrantino di Montefalco.  It must be aged at least 29 months (12 of which are in wooden barrels) — quite a bit longer than many reds. Montefalco Rosso, my particular favorite, is another local wine which is less expensive and usually combines sagrantino grapes with other varietals, mainly sangiovese and merlot.

 Sagrantino wines tend to be a bit robust which makes them complement the local cuisine of Umbria very well from Chianina beef to portobello mushrooms and black truffles. Sagrantino Passito is also produced in the hills of Montefalco and is a dessert wine similar to ice wine, but with a process more conducive to the climate of Italy. My family witnessed the complex undertaking of making this wine during our visit. They harvest the grapes and then put them on racks to partially dry to allow the sugar content to rise. Before they become too dry to release their sweet nectar, they are made into this wonderfully full-bodied dessert wine. This is not to be missed if you get the opportunity to try a glass for or with dessert. In fact, if you really like wine from Montefalco, you may indeed have to visit, because very little of the wine ever makes it out of Italy. With under 30 producers in the area, Montefalco wines are mostly consumed in the region. Surprisingly, I even find it difficult to find my favorite labels of Montefalco wines in Rome, and I came up comepletely empty after a hunt for Montefalco Rosso under any label during a recent trip to the U.S.

Though a visit to Montefalco would be enjoyable almost anytime of the year, late October to November is a particularly wonderful time to explore the area. It is the time of la raccolta (harvest) for olives and grapes. In fact, Montefalco is a destination point on the Strada d’Olio (olive road) of Umbria. Many of the frantoi (olive presses) are open just during this season for those interested in seeing the process of how olives are harvested and then pressed into oil. For those “in the know,” it is also an opportunity to buy some of the premium first press oil during a visit. If you don’t make it to a frantoio, don’t worry because you’ll find places to taste and purchase the new oil along the streets of town. Just be sure to ask if the oil is from this year’s pressing — especially if the date is not indicated on the label.

Since I am admittedly a “foodie,” I can hardly think of a better place in Umbria to stop for a lunch or dinner. I have eaten at three restaurants in Montefalco, and each of them served a slightly different type of fare, but all were particularly memorable. Enoteca L’Alchimista is considered by many of the locals to be the top pick in town. It has a fairly casual atmosphere and serves food which highlights local ingredients and Montefalco wines. You’ll find mushrooms and truffles in season as well as beautiful cured meats and homemade pastas. If you are not sure what wine to order, ask the wait staff to suggest a wine which will pair well with your meal. For meat lovers, I suggest Ristorante Coccorone. As a primi, you can share a plate of tasty pasta bathed in a sauce of sagrantino wine, but save room for the secondi. Their specialty is large cuts of local Chianina beef prepared to order and served with great fanfare. Once you order, they roll the beef out on a scale so you can see how much it weighs. For a meal here, you might want to take a friend because the smallest cuts are about 800 to 1000 grams (a little less than 2 lbs.), and they are essentially meant to be divided among 2-3 people. Lastly, I recommend Locanda del Teatro. In good weather, they serve meals on a terrace overlooking the Appenine Mountains in the distance and the valley below. They offer many seasonal items which arrive artfully presented. On weekends, dinner reservations are a must at the best restaurants in town, so plan ahead.

Special of the Day at Locanda del Teatro

Though most would not consider Montefalco a shopper’s paradise, several shops deserve attention.  Montefalco is the home of Tessitura Pardi, a high-end linen maker started by three brothers in 1949.  You will find more than one outlet for their beautiful wares along the cobbled streets of town.  Also look for shops selling sausages from nearby Norcia, wine shops selling Montefalco’s sublime offerings to Baccus and a store selling the beauty products of Oro di Spello (Gold of Spello), a company based just few miles away.  Whatever you do, just be sure to take in some of the grand views once you reach the edge of town.

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Useful websites for planning your trip:

http://www.montefalcodoc.it/

http://www.stradadelsagrantino.it

http://www.stradaoliodopumbria.it/en/

http://frantoiaperti.net/it/oil-mills/?lang=en

http://www.enologicamontefalco.it/ (site for the yearly wine and food festival)

http://montefalcoapartments.com/